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Daounde is one of a stream of other Beninese, Ouidah residents, and historians who have visited the temporary exhibition since it opened on August 3.

Under protective glass in the main hall, visitors can inspect crusty old maps used by Portuguese mariners, along with guns used in the trade.

Visitors can also see portable altars used in ceremonies by the long line of kings of former Dahomey, founded around 1600 and crushed by French colonialists in 1894.

The museum houses a church bell brought by Roman Catholic missionaries, together with a sinister selection of chains and other implements used to bind slaves.

Ulrich Lantonkpode, a jurist who grew up in Ouidah before moving to the capital Cotonou, said before the exhibition he “lacked elements and information about the culture and history of [his] family”.

“I appreciate this exhibition as much as the idea to rebuild the Portuguese Fort, enabling us to safeguard this history,” he added.

‘Need tough action’

“We need tough action, way beyond the movements to reclaim Black causes,” argued Eric Accrombessi, a tourist guide born in Ouidah.

“The renovation of these places will better illustrate the course of history to pass on to future generations.”

The authorities are also building an International Museum of Memory and Slavery, with a tourist complex of 130 rooms and places of reflection, and a reconstruction of a slave ship.

Historian Sarah Pruitt stressed while exact numbers will never be known, about 12.5 million Africans were forced on to the ships between the 17th and 19th centuries. 

Of these, some 10.6 million survived the crossing.