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A series of dams were built last year, with help from the United Nations refugee office, bisecting the lake bed. Even though the last rainy season was weak, they helped trap rains to recharge the groundwater and retain surface water for livestock. That was crucial not just for herds owned by local Mauritanians, but for the sheep and cows owned by a growing refugee population fleeing conflict in Mali.

A good rain, one of these days, will bring back a solid body of water, residents hope.

Life is tougher now, but it goes on. Camels, cows and sheep still graze the scrubland and drink from water brought up from the wells, even if it takes more effort from their human minders these days.

In some instances, men have to untie the scarves around their heads to add another few metres to the length of the rope they use to send buckets down a well. It might be harder to get, but amid temperatures creeping past 45 degrees Celsius, the water is still cool and refreshing, a thirst-quenching drop of consistency among the hot, dry winds of change.